"ITA Hondaboy" (kcolbey)
01/03/2016 at 09:01 • Filed to: None
2
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"ITA Hondaboy" (kcolbey)
01/03/2016 at 09:01 • Filed to: None | 2
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Or is Kinja being kinja’d? An old picture of my CRX for your time.
RacinBob
> ITA Hondaboy
01/03/2016 at 13:11 |
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Or my old CRX. Legenday cars.
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ITA Hondaboy
> RacinBob
01/03/2016 at 14:07 |
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Very nice! Road Atlanta?
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RacinBob
> ITA Hondaboy
01/03/2016 at 16:53 |
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gingerman 10 hour, 2003
1st overall!
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ITA Hondaboy
> RacinBob
01/03/2016 at 17:34 |
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Nice. I love the paint scheme. As you said, awesome little cars.
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RacinBob
> ITA Hondaboy
01/03/2016 at 20:18 |
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There are several things to watch.
1, Hubs
2. Steering bracket because it locates lower A arm. They will crack.
3. Rear lower A arm mount . Will rip out if you don’t brace or reinforce it.
Ultimately, I retired it to storage. Here was what replaced it for a couple of years. Sadly, it wasn’t significantly faster. 400 pounds cancels 40 hp, especially on same tires.
Here’s what replaced it.
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RacinBob
> ITA Hondaboy
01/04/2016 at 13:43 |
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If you need hubs, I guess these guys are fabricating them.
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ITA Hondaboy
> RacinBob
01/04/2016 at 18:00 |
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Yes, I have broken a hub, not fun!
2. I think this is the rod with two bolt holes that goes to underneath the radiator? If so, yes, this also controls the wheelbase, which when you side swipe something, messes up its mounting location. Don’t ask me how I know this.
3. Do you mean the donut that is in the rear A arm? I ask because there are also a couple of bolts as you work your way toward the center of the car.
Lastly, I don’t think I’ve seen a Del Sol in ITS. Unfortunately, that class gets in to some real rocketship E36s and such, too.
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RacinBob
> ITA Hondaboy
01/04/2016 at 19:36 |
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For stock hubs I would change the drives side every 2 years, the passenger every 3 years (maximum.) The billet hubs might last a long time if they are any good.
The rod you mention is the radius rod. FYI - If you shorten it, you gain caster which is a good thing. What I am talking about is the transverse bracket at the back of the engine compartment. It does dual duty supporting both the stearing rack and the lower a arm bushing. The car is standing on it in a turn, they will flex and crack if you race them long enough.
What I am talking about in the rear is the “ears” that the lower A arm bolts onto. The entire ear will rip off if you race it long enough. Either a sway bar mount that ties the ears together or laying steel on the beam and seam welding is needed to reinforce them.
My old Sol ended up in Jersey. It was hanging around NJMP, summit etc. Great car, east to drive, but SCCA sets weight based on stock hp, and it’s hard to find HP in an engine that does 100hp per liter.
By the way, the best improvement I did is solid bearings and a ball type bearing in the rear trailing arm. Kingpin makes good stuff . http://kingpinmachine.com/store/products…
